In a city with no shortage of achingly beautiful views, there’s perhaps nowhere as transportive as the cobbled hill of Rue de l’Abreuvoir. Looking past the bus stop and twirling influencers, you can convince yourself you’ve stumbled into Paris’ past — a wisteria-laden marvel that slopes up toward Sacré-Cœur.

Once an independent commune, Montmartre was absorbed into Paris’ city limits in 1860, but the hilltop village has always retained a distinct sense of self. Famed for its religious, artistic, and at times seedy history, the neighborhood’s iconic lampposts, steep steps, and panoramic views have drawn the likes of Picasso, Renoir, and hopelessly devoted Francophiles like myself with its bucolic charm. 

I’ve spent more than a decade wandering the main tourist thoroughfares and beyond, finding secret gardens, romantic museums, retro photo booths, and hedonistic hotels along the way. Here, a curated guide to the artistic haven of Montmartre, Paris’ timeless village.

Top 5 Can’t Miss
For a luxuriously out-of-time home base in Montmartre, look no further than Hôtel Particulier Montmartre. Formerly the Hermès family mansion, this charming, three-story home is tucked down a private courtyard and boasts five spectacularly lavish suites. Visit the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, one of the most famous landmarks in Paris, for spectacular panoramic views over the city.Indulge in Michelin-recommended L’Esquisse, a warm and friendly bistro serving inventive takes on classic dishes alongside a well-curated natural wine list. Find the perfect pair of vintage Levi’s at Numéro Deux, an appointment-only boutique in the hills of Montmartre. Feast your eyes on the spectacle that is Moulin Rouge, Paris’ most celebrated cabaret. 

Best Things to Do 
Tour Sacré-Cœur Basilica. A visit to the Sacré-Cœur Basilica is essential to understanding the area’s history, and it’s well worth a trip inside to take in the grandeur of the apse mosaic and stained-glass windows. Known as the “wedding cake” for its impressively white exterior, the domed church is made from locally sourced travertine that releases calcite when it rains, which essentially bleaches the stone and keeps it looking pristine. Note that while the basilica opens at 6:30 a.m. for visitors, the dome — which offers spectacular panoramic views over Paris — doesn’t open until 10 a.m. 

Visit a museum. There are plenty of wow-worthy museums dedicated to Montmartre’s history, and each offers a different angle on the storied quartier. Musée de la Vie Romantique is a literary museum that’s housed in a sage-shuttered home and tucked down a cobbled alley full of rose bushes — utterly fitting, given the museum’s greenhouse cafe has been taken over by the fabulous Rose Bakery. Musée de Montmartre is a tribute to the neighborhood’s artistic legacy: Both Renoir and French painter Suzanne Valadon made their studios there at one point, and the museum’s lush gardens offer magnificent views of the city and Clos Montmartre vineyard. Another worthwhile stop is Dalí Paris, where visitors can marvel at more than 300 works by the surrealist master.   

Get your portrait drawn in Place du Tertre. Yes, it’s typically thronged with tourists, but if you’ve never been, the charm of this historic square shouldn’t be missed. While the fringe of restaurants adds to the village-like vibes, they’re overpriced and underwhelming. Instead, come here to admire the dozens of artists who keep the neighborhood’s creative spirit alive by sketching portraits of visitors (for varying fees and degrees of quality, of course). 

Best Restaurants 
L’Esquisse Recommended by the Michelin Guide, the food at this intimate bistro is upscale and inventive without feeling fussy. Vintage Tolix chairs and wooden booths warm the space, which turns around an open kitchen where chef and owner Laëtitia Bret works her magic. A well-curated natural wine list further draws a convivial crowd of locals and in-the-know visitors. 
Hardware Société Montmartre’s most famous brunch spot has earned its reputation for good reason: This cozy Australian cafe sits at the foot of the basilica and churns out comforting yet surprising delights, like duck confit with saffron labneh and scrambled eggs with smoked pastrami on a crunchy baguette. It’s walk-in only, so be prepared to wait on weekends.

Best Nightlife Moulin Rouge 
This legendary cabaret was once the pinnacle of Parisian nightlife. While ticket prices are steep for the “Féerie” show, how many times do you get to see a proper French cancan in your life? The spectacular is a mesmerizing tribute to Paris’ past and well worth the price of admission.   

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Having just returned from a trip to Paris I can attest to the charm of Montmartre. I have been several times but it is always a pleasant afternoon spent exploring the side streets and having a glass of wine while people watching at Place du Tertre.  On this occasion we went up Rue Foyatier and climbed the 222 steps to the top – you can elect, however, to take the Montmartre Funicular and avoid the stairs.

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