This sun-drenched southern region offers the best of Italy with fewer crowds — at least in the offseason.

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Elizabeth Heath Travel + Leisure

Word is definitely out on Puglia, the long, narrow coastal region that forms the heel of Italy’s boot. No longer a hidden gem or best-kept secret, Puglia’s dramatic beaches, Baroque cities, and whitewashed trulli are splashed over many an Instagram feed. 

Yet compared to other regions of Italy, Puglia — pronounced pool-yah — still offers travelers the Italian vacation experiences they seek, while skipping much of the crowds and chaos of better-known destinations. “It’s definitely less-visited compared to iconic Italian regions like Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast,” says Madeline Jhawar, owner and custom travel planner with Italy Beyond the Obvious. “And Puglia really does have it all: fantastic food and wine, spectacular countryside and beach scenery, and a deep and fascinating history.”

Our guide highlights Puglia’s appealing mix of scenery, history, cuisine — and let’s not forget the agreeable weather most of the year — and maps out how to make the most of a trip to this sunny region. 

Top 5 Can’t Miss

• At a hotel like Le Alcove in Alberobello, you can sleep in a trullo, a cozy, cocoon-like conical dwelling.
• Sample orecchiette, Puglia’s signature ear-shaped pasta, at a traditional eatery like Osteria Le Arpie in Bari.
• Make like an Italian at the mare (sea) and head to a lido (beach club) like the chic Pettolecchia near Torre Canne.
• Buy Puglia’s prized olive oil directly from the source, at a family mill like L’Acropoli di Puglia in Martina Franca.
• Take in the Baroque architecture of Lecce and prepare to be overwhelmed by its exuberant facades, altarpieces, and piazzas.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Borgo Egnazia 

The established go-to luxury spot in Puglia, Borgo Egnazia is a sprawling and impeccably curated compound that ranks among Travel + Leisure’s best resorts in Italy. 

Le Alcove 

The six suites at this boutique hotel each occupy a whitewashed trulli, with cool stone floors, eclectic decor, and modern bathrooms. We love the almost mystical feeling of comfort these spaces convey, as well as the homemade breakfast and the location in the heart of Alberobello town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Masseria Torre Maizza 

A 2020 standout for best new hotels, Masseria Torre Maizza owes its polish to Rocco Forte — expect the brand’s unmatched service and serene, Olga Polizzi-designed interiors that seem to embody a cool breeze. The feeling here is of “living in a real luxury masseria like at home, and it’s the only property with its own golf course.

Best Things to Do

Take a cooking class. 

Yes, cooking classes are ubiquitous in Italy, but the traditional cuisine of Puglia stands out, even in a country of great food. Take a pasta-focused cooking class in a local masseria with a mama and go home with some new skills. Sambati likes the friendly vibe and easy instructions offered by Cook In Puglia in Lecce.

Relax at a lido. 

Beaches in Puglia can be crowded in the summertime. Escape the ruckus at a beach club, or lido, such as Pettolecchia Il Lido, a luxury spot between Bari and Brindisi. Lounge beds, linen-clad gazebos, Frette towels, and waiter service set this one apart in a sea of beach umbrellas.

Head to the sea. 

Puglia’s Adriatic coast is dramatic, especially between Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, where clear waters lap undulating cliffs and flow into the occasional sea cave. Both Waldon and Moore recommend chartering a private boat (Cataurora is a good choice), either for a sunset cruise or a half-day tour with stops for swimming and snorkeling. 

Best Restaurants

LaltroBaffo  

Puglia’s seafood is almost as famous as its orecchiette, and both Sambati and Waldon heartily recommend trying it at LaltroBaffo, an Otranto restaurant helmed by chef Cristina Conte, who, with her young, passionate team, turns out sophisticated takes on traditional Salento recipes.

Osteria Le Arpie 

Handmade, ear-shaped orecchiette is the archetypal pasta of Puglia, and its production centers around Bari’s centro storico. Osteria Le Arpie is about as old-school as it gets, and its seasonal orecchiette con le cime di rapa (turnip greens) is Puglian comfort food epitomized. Also look for dishes served with pane di Altamura, Puglia’s heritage bread.

What to Buy in Puglia

Leather Sandals 

“Puglia is famous for leather sandals, which you can find everywhere in local shops,” says Waldon. Erredibi is a top choice for handmade, locally made products, and they have stores in Brindisi, Ostuni, Lecce, and Otranto.

Primitivo Wine  

“Puglia’s red primitivo wine, even when it’s just table wine quality, can stand up to reds from across the world,” says Moore. Combine some souvenir shopping with a winery tour and tasting at Masseria Li Veli, or just pop into a little grocery or enoteca to buy a few bottles to bring home.

Olive Oil  

“Ancient olive groves define the landscape of Puglia, and buying newly pressed EVOO straight from a producer is something special,” says Moore. “Savoia offers well-organized tours and great oil, but don’t overlook smaller producers like L’Acropoli di Puglia in Martina Franca.”

Cities and Areas to Visit

Lecce 

“We always tell our travelers not to miss the incredible small city of Lecce,” says Jhawar. “It’s referred to as the ‘Florence of the South’ because of its rich Baroque architecture.” Lecce’s soft limestone meant easy carving for 17th-century artisans and well, they went to town, as evidenced at Basilica di Santa Croce, the Basilica del Rosario, and the Duomo of Lecce.

Alberobello 

“It’s hard to recommend people skip a visit to the town of Alberobello, with its iconic trulli houses,” says Jhawar. But a lot of travelers have the same idea. “We always encourage our guests to combine Alberobello with less touristy nearby towns such as Locorotondo or Martina Franca.”

Gallipoli 

While much of the tourist buzz centers around the Adriatic coast and the trulli area, don’t sleep on Gallipoli, which Waldon calls “the beach town of Puglia.” The Ionian coast town has ancient history, a quiet old town, a newer town brimming with life, and a nonstop Italian party scene in the summertime. 

The Gargano 

This picturesque promontory on Puglia’s northernmost coastline is dominated by Gargano National Park, where the scenery changes from beaches to mountains in just a few miles. For smaller towns, incredible biodiversity, more natural beaches, plus some dramatic sea stacks and cliffs, this is the region’s wilder side. 

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