Head north of the Eternal City to discover the charming hill town of Orvieto.
By
Elizabeth Heath of Travel & Leisure
When the crowds of Rome get to be too much, the Italian countryside beckons with its many hilltop villages boasting panoramic views and a slower pace of life. But even these towns can get overwhelmed by visitors. However, one is often overlooked.
Set along the busy Autostrada A1, about halfway between Rome and Florence, Orvieto rises like a dreamy apparition—one of those places in Italy you’ve read about or seen in photos, but whose splendor can only be confirmed in person. Located in west-central Umbria, this ancient town sits—looms, really—on a plateau of volcanic tufa overlooking the valley formed by the winding Paglia River. Its history stretches back centuries, from being a center of the pre-Roman Etruscan culture to serving as a hideout for popes.
Today, travelers come to learn about that civilization-spanning history in the town’s renowned network of subterranean tunnels and architectural treasures like its magnificent duomo cathedral. But ask residents, and they’ll say that what truly sets Orvieto apart is that local life still carries on. And visitors can get a taste of that.
“Yes, tourism is our life…but we also live here,” says Marco Sciarra, who was born in Orvieto. That key distinction makes the town more than a stop on the tourist routes, but a truly special place worth taking the time to get to know.
Exploring Orvieto’s Past
For centuries, Orvieto was home to the Etruscans, one of the pre-Roman tribes who controlled central Italy into the fourth century B.C.E. After being conquered by the Romans, the city passed through various hands before becoming a Catholic stronghold. Thanks to its proximity to Rome and its impenetrable walls, popes would hide away here during periods of plague, pestilence, and sackings.
These layers of history permeate every inch of the town—both above and below ground. Atop the hill stands the magnificent Duomo di Orvieto, which took 300 years to build. The old city, or centro storico, is an enthralling grid of narrow streets and alleys named after noble medieval families. Hotels occupy grand old palaces, or palazzi, and restaurants, wine bars, and shops are tucked into centuries-old houses and storefronts
But it’s what lies beneath the city that may be the most enticing: a vast honeycomb of caves, tunnels, and cellars. First carved out by the Etruscans to access water, the tunnels and caverns have served as storage chambers, hideouts, and escape routes for when the city was under siege. And some of the tunnels are still open. At Pozzo della Cava, a tourist attraction run by Sciarra and his family, you can head through a series of underground caves, which held pottery kilns, wine cellars, and wells from the 1500s.
How to Take a Day Trip from Rome to Orvieto
Orvieto is located about an hour and a half northwest of Rome by car, making it an easy day trip destination. You can drive along the Autostrada A1, or travel by train along the Trenitalia rail network.
It is possible to drive or take buses from the foot of the hill—where the train station and “newer” part of the town are located—to the historic city center on top. But you’ll have to contend with narrow roads and less parking. When open, the historic funicular offers visitors a great way to ascend the hilltop while appreciating the views. The funicular station is located right behind the train station.
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